Method of forming and cutting shoe-uppers.



No. 805,075. PATENTED NOV. 21, 1905. W. KENNGOTT.

METHOD OF FORMING AND CUTTING SHOE UPPERS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 2, 1904.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM KENNGOTT, OF MILWAUKEE, WVISOONSIN, ASSIGNOR OF TVVO- FIFTHS TO LOUIS FULDNER AND CARL VVILLE, OF MILWAUKEE,

WISCONSIN.

METHOD OF FO RMlNG AND CUTTING SHOE-UPPERS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 21, 1905.

Application filed July 2, 1904:. Serial No. 215,045.

T0 on whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM KENNGOTT,"

new form or pattern for the uppers of shoes and by the employment or method of using this pattern on leather or other material from which the uppers of shoes are to be taken to secure greater economy by less waste of material than has heretofore been known and in and by this method to produce uppers for shoes that can be completed with a minimum of seams and that are strong and durable in construction, especially by reason of the few seams, and that are neat in appearance and can be made to fit suitably and nicely to the foot of the wearer.

In the drawings, Figure 1 shows my improved patterns for the uppers of shoes arranged in close and compact form and placed on a hide or piece of leather to direct the cutting of the parts of an upper from such leather in a most economical manner and with very little waste of the material. Fig. 2 is a plan of an upper for a shoe consisting of only two parts, which is the scheme involved in my invention. Fig. 3 shows two patterns of the larger part or member of the upper in a sli-gh t1 ydifferent form from that shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the two patterns being arranged with reference to each other so as most economically to put therefrom these parts out of the mate.- rIa My improved upper for shoes is to be formed in two partstor members, the larger of which, 2, includes a full side piece 3, the instep covering or vamp 4, and a partial side piece 5 at the other side of the shoe from the full side piece 3. This larger part of the shoe-upper is in a generally U-shaped form, with one leg truncated medially, and includes the transverse vamp, a full side piece, and a partial side piece. There is also a smaller part or member 6, which for convenience may be called the quarter. In the form shown in Figs. 1 and 2 the larger or vamp member has its front end removed along the line 7, this form of vamp being adapted to be completed by a toecap piece of a well-known form. As by far the largest number of shoes at the present day are made with such toe-cap, my invention is directed especially to the method and economical production of uppers of this form.

In arranging to cut from a hide A the parts of my improved form for the upper of a shoe they are arranged as shown in Fig. 1, especially in such manner that the partial or short side member 5 is placed in the space or opening of a duplicate pattern between the two side parts 3 and 5, the patterns being reversed in their longitudinal directions for this purpose. This arrangement of the patterns also provides for the cutting from the hide the smaller quarter-piece 6 from a portion of the hide between the thereon patterns'of the larger or vamp pieces 2. The method of doing this is shown in Fig. 1.

Not only is there great economy in the cutting from the material of the uppers of shoes by the use of my improved forms therefor, but the uppers can be put together quickly and easily, so as to produce a strong, desirable, and comparatively inexpensive upper. In Fig. 2 I have illustrated the method of securing the smaller part or quarter 6 to the larger part or vamp-piece 4: by means of a seam at 8, securing the end of the partial side piece 5 to the front end of the quarter 6, and this entire upper-piece (shown in Fig. 2) may be completed for putting into the shoe by sewing the rear ends 9 9 of the sides of the,

entire upper together in a seam running up and down at the middle of the heel behind.

In the form shown in Fig. 3, which is the pattern for a vamp-piece having a complete toe-cover, the patterns 2 2 may be put together and placed on the material in the manner shown in Fig. 3, whereby great economy is secured in cutting Vamps from material. The patterns are reversed in position and interlocked in the same manner as the patterns do of the form shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

An initial blocking out of the leather or material may be made in the form indicated by dotted lines on Fig. 1, and when thus blocked and cut the succeeding cutting out of the forms of the upper can be done by a less-skilled person.

What I claim as my invention is- The method of forming and cutting shoeof each upper Will be at the end and transversely of the truncated side of the other part and the truncated side piece of each upper will be between the full side piece and the truncated side piece of the other part, and providing a pattern for the quarter necessary to complete the partial side piece to a full side piece, placing the quarter-pattern 5 on the material along near the outer edge of the vamp of one of said duplicate patterns and adjacent at its end to the inner edge of the full side piece of said duplicate pattern and then cutting the material along the edges 20 of the patterns.

- In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two Witnesses.

WILLIAM KENNGOTT.

Witnesses:

C. T. BENEDICT, ANNA F. SOHMIDTBAUER. 

